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Mera Peak Climbing - The Ultimate Mera Peak Climber's Guide

Updated at Aug 16, 2022by Mission Himalaya

Mera Peak Climbing in the high Himalayas in Nepal has been one of the most interesting and thrilling adventures. Especially, many climbers come to Nepal with different motives to test their skills and ability to gain success. There are a total of 1310 Himalayan peaks over 6000m, from it 326 peaks with additional 33 minor climbing peaks are ready for an adventure that makes the country the best destination for climbing and mountaineering.

Mera Peak considered one of the highest permitted trekking peaks in Nepal is a high choice destination for beginner climbers around the world. This majestic peak is located in the northernmost corner of Nepal's Solukhumbu region, in the Mahalangur section of the highest Himalayas. Hence, it is renowned for having the best view among all of the climbing peaks in Nepal. 5 eight thousand mountains are viewable from this peak: Mt.Everest, Mt.Kanchenjunga, Lhotse, Cho-Oyu, and Makalu. Being surrounded by mountains all day long will be a once-in-a-lifetime experience, so people take the advantage of this fantastic opportunity to take in the scenery.

Let us then guide you on this breathtaking trip to one of the tallest trekking peaks in the world. We'll also convince you that the route you took to finally arrive at the bustling Sherpa community with the Khumbu Valley's unique culture is the greatest one. Allow us to simulate the sensation of overcoming the toughest obstacle and reaching the summit. So, Let's go on to this Mera Peak Climbing Blog with straightforward and comprehensive instruction manually.

Best time to Climb Mera Peak:

Late April, May, late September, late October, and late November are the best months to climb Mera Peak. Generally, the months of May through October are the most favorable for climbing on Mera Peak. It is reasonable to assume that the optimal times to climb Mera Peak are in the spring and fall. Therefore, the climb is not recommended in the summer or winter months. Because of the slick roads brought on by the considerable rain, the summer and monsoon seasons are not pleasant. You must be prepared for cooler weather if you choose to climb in late March, early April, or late October into November. As a result, you will need to modify your equipment and gear to accommodate the colder weather you will experience while climbing Mera Peak.

Train for Mera Peak Climbing:

Have you been exercising, going on hikes, and trekking for a while? If not, you must complete a specified amount of training before your expedition to Mera Peak Climbing.

1). Resistance training for endurance:

To successfully climb Mera Peak, your body must be prepared for exceptional fitness and strength. You aim to perform for longer periods at a greater heart rate. The body becomes weaker in this location because of the low oxygen levels. You need to develop a strong core, length, and endurance to aid with this.  Particularly for those that focus on core strength, balance, and stability, exercise groups like body pump, Pilates, and aerobics are all excellent choices for a trip like this.

2). Sufficient acclimatization:

The more acclimatization days you have when on a high-altitude expedition, the better. Your high-altitude ascent will only be successful if you successfully acclimate. However, The route has to include enough time for acclimatization, including extra days for relaxation and adjustments. Days spent acclimatizing are crucial since your guide will show you how to operate the equipment's fundamental functions. These extra days allow your body time to adjust to the shortage of oxygen once you reach altitudes beyond 5500 meters.

3). Training Program for Beginning Mountaineers:

Beginners should take introductory mountaineering training if they have the time and money to do so. As you must navigate steep, tricky areas, cross glaciers, and scale rocky cliffs or ice walls, climbing Mera Peak is not particularly simple. It will be necessary to have some basic climbing tools and the competence to utilize them. They must acquire the necessary abilities, such as clipping into a rope and moving securely with the group, via practice.

4). Give Your Training Weight:

You will be wearing a backpack that weighs between 25 and 30 kg during the expedition. Therefore, it will be necessary to practice a training regimen that is identical to the actual course and climb. Unquestionably, you'll be wearing heavier climbing boots with crampons as you climb and descend stairs, navigate a rocky route, and traverse a glacier. Therefore, it is crucial to engage in some multi-day hiking as your vacation draws near.

5). Prepare your mind:

Your success in climbing also depends on your mental preparedness. It is best to be more prepared. During Mera peak climbing, you could become fatigued when trekking on the trails. To keep going forward, you need to maintain your optimism and mental toughness. And you should always be confident about the outcome and success.

Complete Mera Peak Climbing route: 

Kathmandu- Lukla flight- Paiyatrek

Your minimum climbing distance for Mera Peak will be approximately 125 kilometers, regardless of the routes you choose. The ideal trek to Mera Peak takes 17 action-packed days. Meanwhile, this expedition begins by departing from Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal and a historically significant city, for Lukla. You will trek towards Surke after reaching Lukla. After crossing the river and traveling uphill and downwards, you will ultimately arrive at Paiya, which is located at 2825 meters. Thereafter, You'll travel 11 kilometers in around 8 hours to get to Paiya, where you'll spend the night.

Paiya to Tangnak Trek

Then, you must hike and climb difficult terrain to get to Kari La after an early-morning breakfast on the next day. To get to Panggom from Kari La, which is at a height of 2930 meters, you must hike for a maximum of 9 hours. You will travel 13 kilometers and then spend the night in a lodge in Panggom. Another day's journey will take you to Ningbo (2950 meters), a distance of 10 kilometers. You’ll hike for six to seven hours in challenging terrain that includes several short, sharp rises. And eventually, you will spend your night at the lodge. You will go from Ningbo to the bamboo camp (3350 meters) the next day. It will take you 7 hours to complete the 11-kilometer journey, and you will spend the night there.

The next day, you will be trekking across difficult and uneven terrain. However, You must hike for 7 hours and 11 kilometers to get to Khote (3680 meters). Passing via the villages of TashingOngma, MosomKharka, and InkhuKhola. You will have breathtaking views of Mera peak as you get here. The next day, you will trek along HinkuKhola's crest in the direction of Tangnak. You will arrive in Tangnak at 4252 meters after a 7-hour trek, there you will spend the night. The next day is your acclimatization day, during which you'll tour Tangnak and get used to your surroundings. You can reach the holy Charpate Himal glacier, which will take three hours of climbing. Outstanding views of Mera North are available from there afterward. To go back to Tangnak, where you will spend the night in a lodge, you must hike there.

Khare to Mera Peak

You will hike to Khare the next day while taking in the vistas of Charpate Himal by following the horizontal glacier of Dig Glacier to Dig Kharka. You'll climb up quickly on another day from Khare to Mera La which is located at a height of 5350 meters. You are sure to remember the breathtaking views from the Passes for the rest of your life. Finally, you'll spend your night in Mera la at an altitude of 5350 meters.

The next day, you will hike for around 7 hours to reach High Camp. Eventually, From there you can witness stunning views of Mt. Everest, Makalu, Kanchenjunga, Cho Oyu, the south face of Lhotse, Nuptse, and other peaks. You'll spend the night at Mera High Camp getting ready for the ascent the following day.

You have to start early before sunrise on this day since ascending to Mera Peak often takes 5 to 6 hours. You have to strap on a cord and crampons together to climb this hard ascent. You’ll need to be cautious if there has recently been snowfall because there are several crevasses. You'll be rewarded handsomely with breathtaking views of mountains like Everest (8848 meters), Makalu (8463 meters), Cho Oyu (8201 meters), Lhotse (8516 meters), Pumori (7161 meters), Lobuche (6145 meters), and many more. Afterward, you will trek down to khare to spend the night.

Khare to Lukla

The next day, you'll make the walk down to Khote and Hinku Valley. Meanwhile, You will spend the night in Khote after around nine hours of hiking. From hinku valley we will walk through the thick forest.

The Next day, You’ll trek through the dense forest west of the Hinku Valley, taking in the rhododendron woodland along the well-traveled Himalayan path, before arriving at Chetera La (4150 meters), where you will overnight at a lodge. You stroll through the rhododendron before arriving at Chetera La (4150 meters) and finally upon arriving you’ll stay at a lodge in Chetera La.

The next day, You’ll go back to Lukla through the difficult Zatrwa La pass (4610 meters). It will take you around three hours to climb from Chetera La to Zatrwa La. Approximately nine hours will pass before you reach Lukla if we keep going. The next day, you will take a spectacular and exciting flight from Lukla back to Kathmandu. You will celebrate our successful journey and final day with the hiking companions once you return to Kathmandu.

Finally, you will depart from an international airport or another approved site on the last day.

The likelihood of altitude sickness and the significance of acclimatization in Mera peak:

The oxygen level might fall from 88% to 43% when ascending to Mera Peak, which has a peak elevation of 6,476 meters. If appropriate precautions are not followed, it implies there is a significant likelihood of developing altitude sickness.

Therefore, it's better if you've done high-altitude trekking before. You should also take the necessary precautions before the journey, drink lots of water at all times, acclimatize, and relax during the aforementioned days, as well as carry medication like Diamox to ease altitude sickness if necessary and prevent altitude sickness.

You should also have ample time for relaxation and acclimatization. Your odds of failing increase as you strive to reach the summit. You have a better chance of reaching the peak without encountering any issues if you move more slowly. Before ascending to Mera Peak, you must ensure that you've had enough time to acclimatize throughout the hike.

So, to properly climb Mera Peak, we advise you to have a rest day at Khare. and at least one extra day for the Mera base camp or a reserve day for the Mera Peak summit. Your body will have more time to acclimate to Mera Peak if you do this. It allows your body to acclimate properly and provides you ample time to explore.

Meals in Mera Peak Climbing:

The basic meals (breakfast, lunch, and dinner with hot beverages) are provided by tea houses or small restaurants along the trail. You will be eating at a local restaurant and lodging while on the mountain trip. On the route to the next location, a meal will be served about midday. Then, dinner and breakfast will be served at the same teahouse or camp, where you will stop for the night. While staying in the tented camps during the climb you will be served packed lunch along with tea or coffee. The meals will be made by a local chef using organic ingredients. A professional trekking chef will cook simple meals in the tent along with hot beverages for the camping group's participation during the nighttime stay at high camp.

Accommodation details in Mera Peak Climbing:

You have an endless selection of lodging options in Kathmandu. The price of your lodging in this city might vary from 10 dollars to 250 dollars per night, depending on the kind of hotels you pick. Likewise, this range varies depending on your accommodation preferences, from inexpensive lodges to luxurious hotels.

As long you pass out from the valley your options will be lessened as you reach Lukla. However, You will have a choice of shared rooms with two beds or dorm rooms for your lodging. These sorts of accommodations cost 2 dollars to 6 dollars per night.

Necessary basic facilities in the bedroom are provided to you. You can expect four things: a bed, a fresh mattress, a sheet, and a blanket. However, The range may also be influenced by your ability to bargain, your group's size, the time of year, and other factors.

Before attempting to summit Mera peak you’ll spend the night at Mera base camp and Mera high base camp. The tent is available for you to rent or buy. Costs for nice, sturdy, trek-friendly tents range from $150 to $250. The quality, brand, durability, and amount of people it can fit all contribute to this price range.

Mera Peak Climbing Cost:

For climbing the Mera mountain, some basic knowledge and experience are needed. Depending on the season, NMA assigns a different permission fee. The paths you select will determine the Mera Peak permits. Additionally, the price of the Mera Peak Climbing permit differs according to what time of year you decide to complete this climb. 

The cost to climb Mera Peak might reach USD 250 in spring (March, April, and May) since the weather is clear and warm enough for this journey. Autumn (September, October, and November) is the busiest season to visit, and costs USD125 to climb Mera Peak. Since the winter and summer are off-season (January, June, July, August, and December), climbing Mera Peak is less expensive at these times. The NMA Mera Peak Climbing Permit is available for USD70.

How can you obtain a climbing permit for Mera Peak?

It is necessary to have access to climbing permits for Mera Peak before setting out on your adventure. An easy way to get climbing permission is through the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA), and you can quickly get a trekking permit at the Nepal Tourism Board office in Bhirkutimandap, Kathmandu. However, there is a $250 garbage deposit required to get permits for the climb up Mera Peak. This garbage deposit is completely returned once you've finished your vacation by the NMA's provisions. This encourages everyone who climbs to gather and bring back all the trash. Additionally, this will support the development of a trip-related garbage disposal habit.

Obtaining climbing permission requires the assistance of government-registered trekking agencies, however, trekkers may readily get these permits. The procedures for obtaining climbing permits for Mera Peak are handled by trekking companies or organizations. Therefore, please get in touch with us to reserve one of the available days with Mission Himalaya if you want to make your adventure trip as easy as possible.

Local area permit:

To enter the area for the climb, you must first get local area permission. At Lukla, you may obtain this permit upon arrival. The organization you are traveling with will often have the permit prepared for your climb in advance. Thus, the approximate cost of this local area permit is NRs. 2000, or $20.

Makalu barun National park entry permit:

Once in Lukla, the road leads you to Mera Base Camp and Mera High Base Camp via Thangnak, commencing from Khare. You will be able to witness a wide variety of the region's unusual bio-diversities when you enter the Makalu Barun National Park. You cannot access them without a Makalu Barun National Park Entry Permit since they are protected by Makalu Barun National Park. For locals, permission is free; however, for visitors, the cost varies.

Cost details are as follows:

Nationals of SAARC: Nrs.1500 (Nrs. 165 vat charge), or around $15.

Other nationalities: Nrs. 3000 (Nrs. 390 vat charge), or around US$30.

Sagarmatha National Park entry permit:

You will take the Everest Base Camp trek route after flying to Lukla. This will take you to Namche Bazaar. From there, you make the ascent to Mera Base Camp, followed by High Camp and the summit. Subsequently, You will travel the same route back from the peak. For this, you will need to have a permit from Sagarmatha national park. For locals, permission is free in this national park.

Cost details are as follows:

Nationals of SAARC: Rs. 1500 (plus Rs. 165 for the VAT), or around $15.

Other nationals: Rs. 3000 (Rs. 390 for VAT), or around US$30.

Required Documents for Permits:

You will need specific paperwork and payment to get the permissions. The following is a list of the paperwork needed to obtain permission to climb Mera Peak:

  • A passport photocopy is required for both of the permits.
  • Accurately filled out permit forms.
  • Two passport-size photos for both of the permits.
  • Travel Insurance

Advice regarding Climbing Permits:

  • All costs associated with Mera Peak Climbing Permits are non-refundable and non-transferable, and the permits can be only used once by a specific individual.
  • Throughout your expedition, the climbing permits for Mera Peak are crucial. Since the appropriate staff may check your permits as you ascend, you should store them safely. They could ask you to leave the area if you don't present them with the authorization.
  • The National Park and Wildlife Conservation Act of 2029 B.S. and the rules issued under it must be followed by anybody who enters the conservation area. Certainly, You will pay a fee or face legal charges if you violate these rules and regulations.
  • Only the entry permit counters have the entrance permits for the designated locations. Generally, they are not distributed at any of the checkpoints that are situated along the routes leading to those places.

In case of emergency while Climbing Mera peak:

Mera Peak is close to Lukla, which has a respectable hospital and an airstrip for the evacuation of injured people. Although this is dependent on the weather and visibility, some of the hikes into Mera may be reached by helicopter. The team will be in charge of the initial duty of transferring a casualty in the case of an emergency, together with the guide, porters, and anybody else around.

Gears and Equipment List for Mera Peak Climbing:

There are a ton of considerations as you make preparations for your planned ascent of Mera Peak. Particularly, organizing yourself and understanding what you'll need and which goods might be useful in advance is one of the finest methods to remain on top of things. Here is a list of the necessary gear and supplies for climbing Mera Peak that you must take with you when you pack for a successful mountain trek like Mera Peak:

  • Ice Axe
  • Crampons
  • Climbing boots
  • Ascender/ Jumar
  • Helmet- UIAA test
  • Screw gate/ karabiner / Carabiner
  • Harness
  • Descender/super 8
  • Tent
  • Trekking poles
  • Sleeping bags
  • Tape slings
  • Prusik rope
  • Waist leash
  • Belay device
  • Accessory cord
  • Microspikes
  • Prussic loops
  • Oxygens
  • Unlock
  • Altimeter
  • Ice screw
  • Snow bar

Personal Hygiene

  • Hand sanitizer
  • Good sunscreen (high SPF 30+) & lip protection
  • Wet wipes
  • Nalgene Water bottles
  • Travel towel and toilet paper
  • Insect repellent creams.
  • Handwash (non-bacterial)
  • Leak-proof Pee bottle(wide mouth)
  • Pee funnel (female)

Personal First Aid Kit needed while climbing:

Additionally, your hiking guides will be carrying a first aid package for the visitors and the entire team. Nevertheless, we advise bringing the following items with you when trekking.

  • Antibiotics to treat stomach illness.
  • Medication for the cold or cough.
  • Earplugs
  • Tablets for purifying water.
  • Prescripted drugs for altitude sickness.
  • Antibiotics to treat stomach infections.
  • Anti-headache and anti-fever medication (Paracetamol and Ibruprofen)
  • Asthma inhalers
  • Hand sanitizers
  • Antibiotic cream
  • Blister medic kit

Clothing Equipment for Climbing:

Clothing is a crucial consideration for your climb in addition to the aforementioned gear. Another crucial piece of climbing gear for Mera Peak is appropriate clothing that makes ascents more comfortable, safer, and better.

Head and hands:

  • Sunglasses with UV protection
  • Sun hat
  • Headscarf or bandana
  • Warm beanie hat
  • Face mask
  • Scarf
  • Buff
  • Synthetic gloves
  • Summit mittens
  • Balaclava
  • Neck warmer

Upper-body:

  • Long/short sleeve merino shirt.
  • One lightweight fleece jacket.
  • 1 waterproof hooded hard shell jacket.
  • Two wool shirts with short sleeves.
  • Two light wool shirts with long sleeves.
  • One medium-weight warm fleece pullover.
  • Insulated jacket with hood for warm expeditions.
  • Lightweight winter jacket with insulation.

Lower-Body:

  • Merino briefs for underwear.
  • Trekking pants for walking.
  • Thermal bottoms.
  • Thick thermal Merino's bottoms.
  • Tacet-zipper fleece pants and mid-layer trousers.
  • One pair of high-quality, waterproof, breathable, full-faced shell pants.
  • One pair of soft-shell pants.

Feet:

  • 4 pairs of liner socks.
  • Two pairs of medium-heavy wool or poly socks.
  • 3 lightweight trekking sock pairs.
  • Pair of plastic boots.
  • A pair of sturdy ankle-supporting hiking boots.
  • A pair of gym shoes or sandals.

Other Devices and Equipment:

Devices and Equipments for trekking in Nepal

  • Compass and GPS
  • Binoculars
  • Knife(Folding)
  • Cameras
  • Oximeter
  • Power banks
  • Solar charger/panel
  • Spare batteries
  • Headlamp
  • Plastic bags

Mera Peak Climbing FAQs

1). Is it possible to climb Mera Peak on your own?

No, it is not practical and an individual cannot ascend Mera Peak without a guide. To reach Mera Summit, the climbing guide is required even though it is a less demanding peak since everyone's safety must come first.

2). What can we view from Mera Peak?

From Mera Peak, you can see Everest as well as the other three high peaks Cho Oyu, Makalu, Kanchenjunga, and Lhotse.

3). Has anyone lost their life while ascending to Mera Peak?

Although it is quite difficult to ascend further up Mera mountain via the lower realm of the death zone (5,500 m/18,044 ft), the mortality rate is very rare.

4). What are the different routes you can take to reach the Mera peak?

Mera peak climbing route one:

The first route passes through Lukla- Zatr La Pass- Tagnag-Mera Base Camp- High Camp, and Summit.

Mera peak climbing route two:

The second path goes from Lukla- Paiya- Thongnak- Khare- Base Camp- High Camp to Summit.

Mera peak climbing route three:

The third route passed from cholem kharka- Khola kharka- Panch pokhari.

5). Is travel insurance required for climbing Mera Peak?

Before signing up for a Nepal peak climbing adventure, it is essential to have reliable travel insurance coverage. Ensure that the maximum height covered by your insurance coverage is 6,476 meters. Travel insurance is required since there is a danger of altitude sickness, flight cancellation, or any other accident in the mountains.

6). For the Mera peak, do we require oxygen?

Mera Summit doesn't require oxygen because it is just 6,476 meters high; however, acclimatization is crucial for the peak as oxygen is only used for mountains higher than 7,000 meters.

Mera Peak Climbing Blog Conclusion:

Climbing Mera Peak is one of the most popular peak climbing adventures in Nepal because of the exhilaration of reaching the top and the breathtaking views of the highest mountains in the world. According to your schedule, preferences, and financial limitations, you can select any of the routes and choose the best time to reach Mera Peak. However, the greatest approach for a successful and happy peak-climbing adventure is to plan and prepare adequately. You may get in contact with our team and guides to plan and visit our Mera Peak climbing package from Mission Himalaya. We provide you with all the necessary information and help you have the adventure of a lifetime.

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